Since we were staying in Kowloon (the tip of the Chinese peninsula that practically touches Hong Kong island) we decided to explore the streets of Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok. Just a few minutes up Nathan Road takes you from Gucci and Cartier to the narrow, smelly and chaotic streets where you can buy paper votives for the dead, designer handbags of dubious origin and souvenirs at a fraction of the price you'd pay in Hong Kong airport.
We pushed our way up to the Ladies' Market, then, exhausted, decided we needed to eat. I persuaded my sister that we should go to Good Hope noodle, for no other reason than it was in the guidebook. (I have great faith in guidebooks.) I think we both had some doubts when we saw the interior (slightly grubby, the decor was the shabby end of shabby chic) but decided that since it was jammed full of locals it must be ok.
Warned by our previous experience, we did rinse the chopsticks in boiling water but the noodles, when they arrived, were really good. And we've lived to tell the tale so it seems that the tip was worth following, after all.
(RĂ³ looking slightly nervous...)
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