Le Bon Crubeen

In the interests of research, my mamma and I and Máire Áine and her mamma went for dinner at Le Bon Crubeen yesterday. Le Bon Crubeen is on – whisper it – the Northside, and as all of us who went are proud Northsiders we felt it important to support such a brave venture north of the river.

[To my non-Irish readers, I offer the following explanation: traditionally Dublin’s Southside is the more affluent (a bit like London in reverse) and the Northsiders and Southsiders have long been in a state of war. Southsiders think Northsiders inhabit a desolate wasteland. Northsiders think Southsiders are weak and lacking in character. Whoever you support, one thing you cannot deny – the Southside has better restaurants.]

Le Bon Crubeen bills itself as a French bistro and the review I had read said it did the best steak in chips in Dublin for €12.50. (A bit open to interpretation, no? Is that the best steak and chips in Dublin or just for €12.50?) We were there early, but the room filled up quickly. Service was friendly and prompt. (Although our poor waiter was thwarted every time he tried to take our drinks order because we took so long to make up our minds.)

The menu isn’t exactly thrilling, but full of the kinds of classic things that are always a pleasure if done well: steak, duck, salmon fillet, coq au vin. Eventually, Máire Áine and I ordered the steak, Bernadette the lamb shank and Máire the salmon. And the steak, when it came, was excellent. Cooked exactly medium rare, as requested. Good chips – and the waitress offered ketchup and mayo without anyone having to ask. And the lambshank and salmon were good too.

We left without trying any of the desserts (though my attention was caught by the spiced rice pudding) because we were going to the cinema. But the bill for four mains and a bottle of wine was – mon Dieu! – an extremely reasonable €76. So there you have it: an honest-to-goodness French bistro on Talbot St that serves good food for feck all – as advertised:

Northside 1, Southside 0.