tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41651840724446786402024-03-19T09:22:22.766+00:00Hints to Lady TravellersSURELY NONE IS MORE EXCELLENT IN ITSELF AND ITS RESULTS, THAN THE POWER WHICH HAS BECOME THE RIGHT OF EVERY WOMAN WHO HAS THE MEANS TO ACHIEVE IT –<br>
OF BECOMING HER OWN UNESCORTED AND INDEPENDENT PERSON, A LADY TRAVELLER.<br>Lillias Campbell Davidson, <i>Hints to Lady Travellers: At Home and Abroad</i>Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.comBlogger691125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-70777138901747793652015-05-04T11:48:00.003+01:002015-05-04T11:49:46.772+01:00So Long, Farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, Adieu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is not an easy post to write, which is why I have been putting off writing it since January. I had always vowed that, if I decided to put Hints to Lady Travellers into mothballs, I would do it cleanly, not just disappear and not post anything for five months. Hmm.<br />
<br />
This blog gave me a sense of purpose at a time in my life when (confronted by so many possibilities) I often felt adrift. Documenting my travels, from London, to Cape Town, to Melbourne, and back to Dublin, helped me to make sense of the other, inner journey I was on. Blogging about the people, the experiences, the friends I made, the nephews I gained, helped me to develop my own voice as a writer.<br />
<br />
But while, for several years, Lady Traveller was my main role, my vocation and avocation all rolled into one, more recently the demands of my job, plus my changing circumstances (homeowner!) have conflicted with the demands of the blog.<br />
<br />
And so I have decided to say, perhaps not goodbye completely, but goodbye for now. I will still continue to read about lady travellers, to keep the lady traveller spirit alive in my own doings, to visit islands, to seek out strange museums - and encourage others to do the same. <br />
<br />
I can't think of a better way to end this interlude than with these words by the Greek poet Cavafy, via <a href="http://www.poetryfoundation.org/poem/181782">The Poetry Foundation</a>:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b>Ithaka</b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
As you set out for Ithaka<br />
hope your road is a long one,<br />
full of adventure, full of discovery.<br />
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,<br />
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:<br />
you’ll never find things like that on your way<br />
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,<br />
as long as a rare excitement<br />
stirs your spirit and your body.<br />
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,<br />
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them<br />
unless you bring them along inside your soul,<br />
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
Hope your road is a long one.<br />
May there be many summer mornings when,<br />
with what pleasure, what joy,<br />
you enter harbors you’re seeing for the first time;<br />
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations<br />
to buy fine things,<br />
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,<br />
sensual perfume of every kind—<br />
as many sensual perfumes as you can;<br />
and may you visit many Egyptian cities<br />
to learn and go on learning from their scholars.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
Keep Ithaka always in your mind.<br />
Arriving there is what you’re destined for.<br />
But don’t hurry the journey at all.<br />
Better if it lasts for years,<br />
so you’re old by the time you reach the island,<br />
wealthy with all you’ve gained on the way,<br />
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.<br />
<br />
Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.<br />
Without her you wouldn't have set out.<br />
She has nothing left to give you now.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.<br />
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,<br />
you’ll have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-63748504662365697092014-11-25T08:00:00.000+00:002014-11-25T08:00:08.721+00:00Windswept West Coast<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is what a beach on the west coast of Jutland looks like in November. (Jutland is the furthest west of the many islands comprising Denmark.) You'll have to imagine the wind.<br />
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<br />
I felt this was a palette I understood: grey skies, wind bleached sea grass, grey sea. <br />
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This is a fishing village perched between the beach and the fjord - even more windswept, if that's possible, since it gets the wind from both the west and the east.<br />
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I appreciated the attempts at brightening up the landscape.<br />
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I liked the Danish flags adorning many of the buildings.<br />
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But most of all I liked the beach.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-68060739827448590832014-11-07T09:10:00.000+00:002014-11-10T15:58:42.552+00:00Poppies Revisited <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I went back to the Tower of London this
week to revisit the poppies. I went for
a few reasons. First, because I wanted
to see how the installation had grown <a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2014/09/poppies-at-tower.html">since I last saw it</a>. Second, because the
poppies have become a realio, trulio PHENOMENON of their own. Everyone, from the Guardian’s art critic Jonathan
Jones (‘prettified’, ‘toothless', ‘inward looking’), to Boris Johnston
(‘awe-inspiring’, ‘global visitor attraction’) has weighed in and every day,
crowds of people stream across Tower Bridge and round Tower Hill to see for
themselves.</div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The sea of poppies has indeed grown since September,
and the poppies almost fill the space between the Tower’s outer perimeter and
the main wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was struck by how well
the installation works as a visual statement: the sweep of vivid colour against
the monochromatic stone draws your gaze.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s simple, powerful, and – crucially – looks amazing in photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But while simple, the installation isn’t
simplistic and it’s doing it a disservice to suggest the poppies have been
popular because they appeal to the lowest common denominator. Every time I look
at this flood of red I remember the title of the work: ‘Blood Swept Lands and
Seas of Red’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From a distance, it does
almost look like the Tower is surrounded by a blood-filled moat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I think Jonathan Jones <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/jonathanjonesblog/2014/oct/28/tower-of-london-poppies-ukip-remembrance-day">made a valid point</a> that a
fitting testimony to the dead of World War I would represent all of the
soldiers who died – not just the British combatants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But that memorial would have looked very
different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because what struck me as I
walked across Tower Bridge this week is that almost every person was wearing a
poppy pinned to their coat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
quintessentially British symbol and this is a quintessentially British
memorial.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Given my general pro-poppy stance, you
might be wondering if I’m also wearing a poppy this November.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did consider it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought that maybe in what politicians like
to call the new era of British-Irish relations I could embrace a symbol that
has a difficult and unhappy history in my homeland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought that wearing the poppy might be a
way of honouring my Great-Uncle Jim, who served in the Royal Artillery and died
in Northern France in 1917.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remembered
my ‘your people shall be my people’ approach to ANZAC Day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, I decided it still doesn’t feel
right for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But, on Sunday, <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/oct/14/irish-government-wreath-cenotaph-remembrance-day">the Irish Ambassador will lay a wreath</a> on the cenotaph in Whitehall as part of the
Remembrance Day service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And that
feels right.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">***</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">UPDATED TO ADD: even as I wrote about the Irish Ambassador taking part in the Remembrance Sunday service, I wondered whether I was right about him laying a wreath of poppies. I was not. In fact he laid a wreath of green leaves. http://www.irishtimes.com/news/world/uk/irish-ambassador-lays-wreath-at-london-ceremony-1.1994009 </span></div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-29885824753525924792014-10-28T16:39:00.002+00:002014-10-28T16:39:59.991+00:00Becoming a Bird<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<i>The Treachery of Sanctuary </i>is an interactive installation by Chris Milk that combines motion capture and projection to create a sophisticated but beautifully intuitive update on shadow puppetry.<br />
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Stand in front of the triptych of screens and, as you watch, your shadow transforms into a great bird, gaining huge, Angel-of-Death like wings that respond to your every motion.<br />
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It's part mesmerising, part terrifying to see your winged alter ego rising up from the mirrored floor.<br />
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But before you can get too caught up in this shadowy persona, your bird avatar starts to disintegrate, each piece flying away and becoming part of the ghostly flock that hovers around the edges of the installation.</div>
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If you follow <a href="http://thecreatorsproject.vice.com/chris-milk/chris-milk">this link to the story behind the piece's creation</a>, you can trace its origins back to the cave paintings at Lascaux. We are fascinated with shadows.</div>
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<i>The Treachery of Sanctuary</i> was on show as part of <i>Digital Revolution</i> at the Barbican in London and can be seen next at the Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology. </div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-63545923998953931042014-10-24T10:56:00.000+01:002014-10-24T10:56:22.401+01:00Looking Back at the Louvre Lens<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The Louvre Lens (a satellite of the Louvre Museum in the Northern French town of Lens) displays its main collection in one enormous 'grande galerie', more than 120m long. The art is arranged in slices along a timeline, so that as you move through the space you moved through the history of art. What with the white plinths, the strict geometry and the reflective walls, it's quite an effect …<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9sAu_TD0CkQ8cQ_VGD9fXBv8jKPL9sord2iIkWYMQ52MSN-X20L5GWsRQTiBibn8bw26j2AzQGx8DSYJHRVBp8mTLbxPQDoMr2gKte4CVFHXHx3r1lx_-AST3N-lG3AEf9KrYAFJUHTR/s1600/IMG_8522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge9sAu_TD0CkQ8cQ_VGD9fXBv8jKPL9sord2iIkWYMQ52MSN-X20L5GWsRQTiBibn8bw26j2AzQGx8DSYJHRVBp8mTLbxPQDoMr2gKte4CVFHXHx3r1lx_-AST3N-lG3AEf9KrYAFJUHTR/s1600/IMG_8522.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijInNof-Uf0jXK4mx54uxuZUJ3-PmbikLBjN-szwifKdpguOhT9wdBQlIrb1usM7l1on__T9_j9VXUlEqfWmF79vwfafrJA-MdwX_a2aGbhK7v1utjr4DrmWWdYowfVj-OuVDGu_qDOKJU/s1600/IMG_8552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijInNof-Uf0jXK4mx54uxuZUJ3-PmbikLBjN-szwifKdpguOhT9wdBQlIrb1usM7l1on__T9_j9VXUlEqfWmF79vwfafrJA-MdwX_a2aGbhK7v1utjr4DrmWWdYowfVj-OuVDGu_qDOKJU/s1600/IMG_8552.jpg" height="410" width="640" /></a></div>
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But there's another effect, too. As you walk through the gallery, almost all of the sculpture is facing you -<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVR1SNizJkvgf9urrEygIQ9ldFKTFMo4ZByOHUVivg1x2fDpVY5v7l0w13MEZ1NBi9ea2L1EDZUfSYvIxjs6k7Spa4bOv_7EBEUSjtV0yeiPDI3kbcZXeqTTSbEwZm3ETsIz7i6hyphenhyphencQM_/s1600/IMG_8546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGVR1SNizJkvgf9urrEygIQ9ldFKTFMo4ZByOHUVivg1x2fDpVY5v7l0w13MEZ1NBi9ea2L1EDZUfSYvIxjs6k7Spa4bOv_7EBEUSjtV0yeiPDI3kbcZXeqTTSbEwZm3ETsIz7i6hyphenhyphencQM_/s1600/IMG_8546.jpg" height="640" width="448" /></a></div>
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which means that if you happen, like Orpheus, to look back - you see a sea of naked bottoms. <br />
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Evidence of the law of unintended consequences or a deliberate decision? I'm not sure which would please me more, but these photos still make me laugh.<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-32945741315696706182014-10-22T13:03:00.000+01:002014-10-24T10:57:58.841+01:00Nellie's Flat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Last weekend was Open House weekend in Dublin. For anyone who doesn't know, Open House happens in cities all over the world around this time of year and, for one weekend, buildings that are normally closed to the public open their doors. This year, there was only one building I really wanted to see: the Iveagh Trust Museum Flat in Dublin's Liberties.</div>
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The flat is in a building complex owned by the <a href="http://www.theiveaghtrust.ie/">Iveagh Trust</a>, a philanthropic body set up by the Guinness family in the late 19th century to build social housing for the poor of London and Dublin. I've always been a bit fascinated by these distinctive red brick apartment blocks in one of the oldest parts of the city (sandwiched between the two cathedrals, just up from the old Viking settlement) so when I heard one of the flats had been preserved as a museum, I waited for the opportunity to visit. Thank you Open House! </div>
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Henry and Anne Molloy moved into Flat 3B in 1915, having previously rented two other flats in the building. Their daughter Nellie was born in one of those flats in 1907 and lived in 3B from 1915 to her death in 2002. There's <a href="http://www.theiveaghtrust.ie/?page_id=359">a film on the Iveagh Trust site all about Nellie</a> - and a photograph of her is one of the first things you see when you enter the flat.</div>
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When Nellie died, her family agreed with the Trustees that the flat should be preserved as a museum - a reminder of how these flats looked and how people lived here in the past. </div>
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The flat has three rooms: a general living room and two bedrooms. The original design provided for four flats accessed from the same landing to share two toilets and a big sink. Although other flats in the complex have been modernised over the years, Nellie resisted offers to add a bathroom or a proper kitchen. When you look at these photos, please consider: at one time there were EIGHT people living here. Six children sharing one bedroom, their parents the other, with the third room serving as living room, dining room, kitchen. And this would have been considered a pretty good standard of living at the time. </div>
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No space in the living room is unused. In a space about 9m2 there is a range set into the fireplace, a kind of pantry/cupboard in the corner, <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutNAygmtU0-u60_Fr8b4vgEai5ggagb9gZ2RZMe-_9tRcvTImj6GJ0e7DRb7abXezw6wQseAEuE4EOilyo1NHlaOgVdlcOYDWvlh_jzHDV2oM0jp-NICBOCg3Y4ipC075MJ2EY0IfUFP2/s1600/IMG_2552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutNAygmtU0-u60_Fr8b4vgEai5ggagb9gZ2RZMe-_9tRcvTImj6GJ0e7DRb7abXezw6wQseAEuE4EOilyo1NHlaOgVdlcOYDWvlh_jzHDV2oM0jp-NICBOCg3Y4ipC075MJ2EY0IfUFP2/s1600/IMG_2552.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZF1vgH4JNW6qC8_-j6m3EXI_OCO237IYo8_Di1_b5DF75pvJfRzHeHliYl3hAA1eEOqOJPKl7Bhr81Htxr2hVcprK_ZqIqLKfWIJRCVJf17NSknqxUYLeiQVTi0R6nhAmj9tSLsPZPmxi/s1600/IMG_2539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZF1vgH4JNW6qC8_-j6m3EXI_OCO237IYo8_Di1_b5DF75pvJfRzHeHliYl3hAA1eEOqOJPKl7Bhr81Htxr2hVcprK_ZqIqLKfWIJRCVJf17NSknqxUYLeiQVTi0R6nhAmj9tSLsPZPmxi/s1600/IMG_2539.jpg" height="500" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QbCVNxWXnkQZRkftgEKFWXurCiVbalnXpx1yIVLFdlbwBoU72OEaYVvAuNymCoWp7bZMx9_Y1_REVtPptbwlMGEZjMjkISoOI9Dset9awBMi8h0KlEfAs73883Tug8aQEr1nQuwSQT2l/s1600/IMG_2542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QbCVNxWXnkQZRkftgEKFWXurCiVbalnXpx1yIVLFdlbwBoU72OEaYVvAuNymCoWp7bZMx9_Y1_REVtPptbwlMGEZjMjkISoOI9Dset9awBMi8h0KlEfAs73883Tug8aQEr1nQuwSQT2l/s1600/IMG_2542.jpg" height="640" width="448" /></a></div>
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a long leather sofa, a table with four chairs, two easy chairs, another folding table, a sideboard and sundry photos, holy pictures, ornaments.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Uv34fTcZdm2DQ4WyVIpToEuPnNLzSakXU7tH098ZqvtShPkeftUUUrQMIY-tKxYR2uOgsZfSckR1czkYmjKarniMSazmfqOYDzeDDhk7-8-gEMHbfonxPxSHjhd4a1zFdqMgd-M7qFIx/s1600/IMG_2535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Uv34fTcZdm2DQ4WyVIpToEuPnNLzSakXU7tH098ZqvtShPkeftUUUrQMIY-tKxYR2uOgsZfSckR1czkYmjKarniMSazmfqOYDzeDDhk7-8-gEMHbfonxPxSHjhd4a1zFdqMgd-M7qFIx/s1600/IMG_2535.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Oh, and a piano. Did I mention the piano?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUD-QRLcqPzRl8cdjanLKXvsGtfl9w34KM2n6m8gStHJt8kVM1ZWip7QPVk0MTLxryWSnACcNIZ8LiegU88xarGRpfb_QFMpmu6PCwbNU9UoU4jfeaD2FA35pDZSevjr9e0jaRpiRjY7zJ/s1600/IMG_2540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUD-QRLcqPzRl8cdjanLKXvsGtfl9w34KM2n6m8gStHJt8kVM1ZWip7QPVk0MTLxryWSnACcNIZ8LiegU88xarGRpfb_QFMpmu6PCwbNU9UoU4jfeaD2FA35pDZSevjr9e0jaRpiRjY7zJ/s1600/IMG_2540.jpg" height="640" width="470" /></a></div>
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One of the bedrooms has space for two twin beds, some hooks and a chest of drawers. The second now only has one brass bed, but this is where, once upon a time, the six children would have slept. You can still see a curtain rail running across the ceiling - a curtain was used to divide the boys' side of the room from the girls' side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOS15PL2A60Z5b3G223x9lg1s66jLQiNXkmNrFheWdELU0oaQtHYPIcAJhIlE6XD7f1fY0eQLjQVLYfxUvH8pu7KKXvkjzMexkx16yO5b37c4mFC-iW5mniqvARgnlwM0zzayPTmFadqPa/s1600/IMG_2524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOS15PL2A60Z5b3G223x9lg1s66jLQiNXkmNrFheWdELU0oaQtHYPIcAJhIlE6XD7f1fY0eQLjQVLYfxUvH8pu7KKXvkjzMexkx16yO5b37c4mFC-iW5mniqvARgnlwM0zzayPTmFadqPa/s1600/IMG_2524.jpg" height="640" width="518" /></a></div>
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Tucked behind the door was a small, slightly more modern, stove.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2V5sau3BoZyoT6y-itc3OfiQ37t2FBNZHcb6lbvTYog7bKH7wYfoX_-YImXFmAdy_LJtFvF-VeyPyEeKx2kScvQHAg6NWVNZM23rcIY3PuyBdKpV_lVrBa4SWGWK5eyWyekgmhe66jfh/s1600/IMG_2527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2V5sau3BoZyoT6y-itc3OfiQ37t2FBNZHcb6lbvTYog7bKH7wYfoX_-YImXFmAdy_LJtFvF-VeyPyEeKx2kScvQHAg6NWVNZM23rcIY3PuyBdKpV_lVrBa4SWGWK5eyWyekgmhe66jfh/s1600/IMG_2527.jpg" height="640" width="498" /></a></div>
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The washing facilities:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFjZ4hDPElH1ytTKIu1LF8NytJbn8L2kO-dhDKlJd_ztFVBFQGswKD14GeAchJYOEcsrsbuYolUi7UyMVRa4SbQihabtmVdjXUO6a6eQ1-5jAoBP6-xEwuN3mt8gBStn0hZKNBNg29WT1/s1600/IMG_2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFjZ4hDPElH1ytTKIu1LF8NytJbn8L2kO-dhDKlJd_ztFVBFQGswKD14GeAchJYOEcsrsbuYolUi7UyMVRa4SbQihabtmVdjXUO6a6eQ1-5jAoBP6-xEwuN3mt8gBStn0hZKNBNg29WT1/s1600/IMG_2529.jpg" height="640" width="494" /></a></div>
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What struck me most about the flat was not the size (although it's hard to imagine how it worked when everyone was at home - squeezing past the piano, taking it in shifts to eat meals ...), nor the decor (though you have never seen such a range and variety of holy pictures and memorabilia) but the quality of light which gilded everything like in a Dutch Golden Age painting. While I'm sure the atmosphere in the flat wasn't always as serene and lovely as it was last Saturday afternoon, I think I can understand why Nellie might have wanted to keep it as it was - a kind of illuminated shrine to her family.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldMQY26gqnJdQWEquA_rnSHEp3RAh_8wqFJFu2IfZfOLiN5ZtMHwmZaVTq6y4FZ2pltjdpE7xcFBbYaX3Hn4kWm5Pob_2aCJhp8elillOEcsCPkxoqvxxmn95JMwMiC9YvZ-193GYX0Vj/s1600/IMG_2548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldMQY26gqnJdQWEquA_rnSHEp3RAh_8wqFJFu2IfZfOLiN5ZtMHwmZaVTq6y4FZ2pltjdpE7xcFBbYaX3Hn4kWm5Pob_2aCJhp8elillOEcsCPkxoqvxxmn95JMwMiC9YvZ-193GYX0Vj/s1600/IMG_2548.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Visiting the flat can be arranged by appointment, by contacting the Iveagh Trust.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-91507123385358363552014-10-17T08:00:00.000+01:002014-10-17T08:00:13.107+01:00The Poetical Walls of Leiden<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For the past year or so, I've been working on a project in beautiful Leiden, home of the oldest university in the Netherlands.<br />
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A couple of weeks ago, we went out for an evening stroll along the canal and I spotted this house. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2UGpwG8Eku_gnK1V5kRCoi7YlBmmcLWqVSFRSkfBaP1MrJR5eY1Su8hrlG_ALYxNeIzKNoQT_dLBqqj2zoy6HaL6_UBen0GJoy-kCQ9SMAjTlLmyHZerLGmPm8TTrHGOPt-eARY-BaUM/s1600/IMG_2214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2UGpwG8Eku_gnK1V5kRCoi7YlBmmcLWqVSFRSkfBaP1MrJR5eY1Su8hrlG_ALYxNeIzKNoQT_dLBqqj2zoy6HaL6_UBen0GJoy-kCQ9SMAjTlLmyHZerLGmPm8TTrHGOPt-eARY-BaUM/s1600/IMG_2214.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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I assumed the residents were just big Shakespeare fans. Why NOT paint Sonnet XXX on the side of your house? Good idea.<br />
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But then I also saw this house and realised that it wasn't just a once off, but a project to transform buildings into outsized pages of poetry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufJDm__Pas7WkhCwFVZG-ExPsBpEyssZ03mP_dWiXi9awPwv5_KZRD3bPsfa_6UQToTxLEb_wcwsYgf3zo8s4dvt3QbIbxAUFZFszkJhDEaiY8HFfv5iUSK4fYXgFO0q0UL17WziQ2L-m/s1600/IMG_2222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufJDm__Pas7WkhCwFVZG-ExPsBpEyssZ03mP_dWiXi9awPwv5_KZRD3bPsfa_6UQToTxLEb_wcwsYgf3zo8s4dvt3QbIbxAUFZFszkJhDEaiY8HFfv5iUSK4fYXgFO0q0UL17WziQ2L-m/s1600/IMG_2222.jpg" height="640" width="436" /></a></div>
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And here's another one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEutn2B5smZxV5mBLJyP7LyHFTU7Tx6rfR-JmlloO6tFsb44LOLKKf3w7nB5v_QUXTnATggEtHYJ0s_A0ZRM5wsq-OcWVzx78v8kSulekJBsIGJdLWfJwQd1AnIECYmWLmSeogC_59M9V/s1600/IMG_2232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEutn2B5smZxV5mBLJyP7LyHFTU7Tx6rfR-JmlloO6tFsb44LOLKKf3w7nB5v_QUXTnATggEtHYJ0s_A0ZRM5wsq-OcWVzx78v8kSulekJBsIGJdLWfJwQd1AnIECYmWLmSeogC_59M9V/s1600/IMG_2232.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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It turns out these 'wall poems' are part of an <a href="http://www.muurgedichten.nl/wallpoems.html">ongoing project</a>, and rather than being temporary, they remain for everyone to find and enjoy.<br />
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Lovely idea, no?<br />
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If you should find yourself in Leiden, the project website has a <a href="http://www.muurgedichten.nl/indexopontstaan.html">full list of the poems</a> (107 and counting) and a <a href="http://www.muurgedichten.nl/plattegrond.html">map</a>, so you can design your own walking tour.<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-11950444524543655372014-10-14T08:00:00.000+01:002014-10-14T09:56:33.564+01:00How Do You Take Your Art?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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How do take your art? Alone or in a crowd? Fast or slow? Through a camera lens or in a camera-free zone?</div>
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The debate about how people should behave in art museums ramped up recently as the National Gallery in London became the latest in a slew of museums to allow photography in their galleries, leading to many, oh many, columns about how photos - selfies in particular - are Ruining The Museum Experience For The Rest Of Us (see <a href="http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/fears-national-gallery-will-be-selfie-central--as-photo-ban-is-relaxed-9665604.html">here</a> and <a href="http://hyperallergic.com/149290/museums-should-institute-no-photo-hour-british-arts-executive-suggests/">here</a> if you're interested in reading more) linking directly or indirectly to opinion pieces that suggest You're Looking at the Art All Wrong (<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/12/travel/the-art-of-slowing-down-in-a-museum.html?_r=0">here</a> and <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/12/travel/the-art-of-slowing-down-in-a-museum.html?_r=0">here</a>).</div>
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Oh. Really?</div>
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In the interests of satisfying my curiosity I decided to carry out my own, entirely personal, non-scientific research on a visit to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, one of the most visited art museums in the world.</div>
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I spent most of my time in two of the most popular areas of the museum: the Gallery of Honour (featuring big names like Vermeer, Rembrandt, Hals) and the 19th century galleries. I didn't take any selfies, but I did spend a lot of time looking at art, photographing art and photographing other people looking at art. </div>
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<a href="http://museumtwo.blogspot.ie/2014/08/blame-crowd-not-camera-challenges-to.html">The brilliant Nina Simon points out that one of the main gripes against allowing photography in museums (makes it harder to see the art) has less to do with photography as such, and more to do with crowding</a>. So even if the museum banned photography of, say, the Night Watch, I'm pretty sure you'd still have to peer through a crowd of people to see the painting. But while it's true that there's a perma-crowd in front of the work - actually, brilliantly, standing in a crowd (taking photos, talking, looking at their maps, jostling for a better view) helped me to <i>get</i> it. I'm in a crowd, reflecting a crowd, reflecting a crowd ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC546d4VqmQJ7PI7auCRohmJ_sV_nDP9MNHA88_7QeeDx_a8pvz9aPlUWtHhmHzESlr3dcb-Ip_nLEYALo0TvVds8kqmfhAFrOiSi9cR_agO2EKaDQFTS0msY_yXRpt0_urxSAyKhElZDB/s1600/IMG_2172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC546d4VqmQJ7PI7auCRohmJ_sV_nDP9MNHA88_7QeeDx_a8pvz9aPlUWtHhmHzESlr3dcb-Ip_nLEYALo0TvVds8kqmfhAFrOiSi9cR_agO2EKaDQFTS0msY_yXRpt0_urxSAyKhElZDB/s1600/IMG_2172.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here, people are gathered round Vermeer's Milkmaid. I love this photo: it looks just like she's doing a demonstration in a department store. Hey, check out this great milk pourer I have. Yours for only €19.99.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNpefX6HpvdNcEy4oXoSjCS-M49kTHPIZK7Et83zRDY5aBY0IUy5f2ECYqgxMcUYLjLKaXbj4K1AjLnKGU8_gHwkgqjcHtbkudupbYEH7ITEN5YGvcg6sfgM_poZI-XUSMN1J_lBkuqYe/s1600/IMG_8706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNpefX6HpvdNcEy4oXoSjCS-M49kTHPIZK7Et83zRDY5aBY0IUy5f2ECYqgxMcUYLjLKaXbj4K1AjLnKGU8_gHwkgqjcHtbkudupbYEH7ITEN5YGvcg6sfgM_poZI-XUSMN1J_lBkuqYe/s1600/IMG_8706.jpg" height="412" width="640" /></a></div>
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Had I not had my camera, I think I would have been more focused on the painting on its own. Because of my camera, I was very aware of the image created by all of these people gazing at The Milkmaid, nodding as they watch her pouring milk. A new perspective. I also liked seeing how respectful people were about waiting to take a photo of the painting, as though a little shy about taking liberties with such a celebrity.<br />
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I noticed that the act of taking a photograph seems to give people a sense of agency, an important sense of <i>something to do</i>. I'm often struck by the flatness of the experience (visual and emotional) in art museums: flat paintings against flat walls with flat captions. Sure, the idea is that the art should reach out to you in some way, but in practice it often leads to a kind of dead-eyed shuffle through the galleries. (Just spend five minutes in the Louvre on a Sunday morning and you will see what I mean.) <br />
<a href="http://pss.sagepub.com/content/early/2013/12/04/0956797613504438.abstract">A recent piece of research</a> (seized upon with GLEE by numerous broadsheets) suggests that taking photographs of objects in museums worsens recall of those objects. But the research also found that if there's a specific reason to take the photo (to zoom in on a detail, for example), people remembered it better. So, with the right incentive (whether your own interest or someone else's suggestion) a camera can be a tool that helps you feel like an active participant in the museum experience, not just a shuffler. <br />
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My pro-photography stance was tested later on, beside the Van Gogh self portrait. There was a bit of pushy-shovy as two guys tried to get into the best position for photos. It made me feel uncomfortable to see Vincent's sad face peeking out through the crowd.<br />
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And here, everyone seems to be ignoring him.<br />
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But again, the interaction of the people, their cameras, my camera and the painting framed the experience in a new way. If anything, I thought my appreciation of the painting was enhanced because of this moment when I was acutely of Vincent Van Gogh's loneliness in the middle of a crowd.<br />
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So, I think it's safe to conclude that the presence of people photographing in the Museum didn't ruin the experience for me, nor - I hope - did I ruin anyone else's experience (apart from the man who elbowed me as he tried to get into optimal position to photograph <a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/SK-A-1115">this painting</a>). The crowding wasn't ideal but was mostly limited to the iconic paintings - there were still plenty of opportunities in the museum to have an uninterrupted one-on-one with the art. <br />
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In fact, the visit was an important reminder that when artworks are in public spaces, the public - and their cameras - become part of the experience. The obligation is on the museum makers (myself included) to develop galleries that respond better to the fact that visitors are not just participants in their own visit, but also become part of how other visitors experience the museum.<br />
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In other words, while you <i>could</i> say that The Rest of Us Are Ruining the Art Museum for the Rest of Us - you could also argue that the presence of other people contributes to the kind of unique, memorable experience you can only get from visiting a museum.</div>
Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-16117358091239623822014-10-12T13:56:00.000+01:002014-10-12T13:56:28.152+01:00Time Travels with a Donkey<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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One last Italian instalment for now, as there's only so much I can write (or anyone else might want to read) at one time about food, wine and family. </div>
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I keep coming back to these photos of two of my nephews, taken on a visit to the donkeys who lived in a field below the agriturismo. The boys were both thrilled at the prospect of seeing donkeys close up, but when we got near, they drew back. This guy (the indian chief) told me firmly that his mother wouldn't like it because she's scared of donkeys (slander, but he's six, and projecting.) </div>
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So we talked a bit about the donkeys and I stood between nephews and donkeys as a buffer while we chatted. I explained that the donkeys were butting the fence because they were curious about us and I leaned over and stroked one of the donkey's noses as I spoke. And I had the strangest time-sliding moment where thirty years dissolved and reappeared and I was all at once a small girl who had been scared of donkeys and a grown woman who could show her nephews how to pat a donkey and my overwhelming feeling was of amazement and awareness because I am both those people, all at once, altogether. Somewhere between five and thirty-five, I learnt not to be scared of animals and my five-year-old self is both surprised and delighted. </div>
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These fellas were quite impressed too.</div>
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I wonder if he'll remember this in thirty years?<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-28149216637105329882014-10-07T08:00:00.000+01:002014-10-07T08:00:06.482+01:00How Do You Say 'Glutton' in Italian?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Yes, it has occurred to me that writing about Italian food is somewhat redundant - it's not as though I were the first person to record my thoughts on the subject. That said, I thought I would share a few food highlights and hints from my recent visit on the grounds that I always like reading about or hearing about what people eat on their travels.<br />
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<i>Coffee</i><br />
My first coffee of our stay was in Milan airport, just after baggage claim. There I realised a couple of things. First, a cappuccino is greatly enhanced by a ciambella, a kind of lemon-scented doughnut. Second, there is a particular protocol at Italian coffee bars. You order and pay at one counter, then take your receipt to a second counter where the actual coffee-maker (person, not machine), reviews the receipt, marks it and then prepares your coffee.<br />
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<i>Prima Colazione</i><br />
Living in Italy, much as I like the idea, might be dangerous to my health. My ideal breakfast is essentially coffee + cake - what Elizabeth Gilbert describes as the 'Italian speedball breakfast' in <i>Eat, Pray, Love.</i> My urge to start the day with caffeine and sugar (ideally some chocolate in there too) is one I try not to indulge to often. But when everyone else is doing it…. At the agriturismo I compromised. I had yoghurt and fruit every morning and usually a small sample of the savoury 'special' - the mini frittatas and the small cheese pies, like Greek tiropita, were especially good. And then I had a slice of cake and a cappuccino. And then I ran up and down several hills, often with a small nephew on my back.<br />
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<i>Pizza</i><br />
I am a pizza purist. No complicated toppings, please. We discovered that my six-year-old nephew shared my exact tastes: we discovered this when his pizza arrived and my pizza arrived and he looked at his and looked at mine and then sweetly suggested I might like to swap. (I do mean sweetly. At six, his talent for guile is underdeveloped.) Instead we shared, and learnt together to say 'pizza con salume crudo, per favore'. If you like pizza with pepperoni, this is what you should say, too. <br />
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<i>Antipasti</i><br />
Yes, please. Always. I loved the roasted red peppers wrapped around a slightly fishy mayonnaise and the raw vegetables with bagna cauda, featuring garlic, olive oil, anchovies and a little cream, eaten fondue-style. <br />
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<i>Pasta</i><br />
The funny thing is I don't normally eat a lot of pasta. But when it appears as one course among many - and in a relatively modest portions, not the huge vats that get served up in restaurants elsewhere - why, it seems foolish not to partake. My favourite were tortelli (similar to ravioli) filled with pumpkin and a hint of cinnamon and decorated with sage. <br />
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<i>Secondi</i><br />
I am still thinking about the pork loin with honey and a sauce made from slightly sour berries. And the small, crispy potatoes cooked under the joint and flavoured with just enough rosemary. I would never make it as a vegetarian in a world where such delicious <i>maialino</i> exists - nor for that matter would I survive long without potatoes. You can take the girl out of Ireland, etc. I see a potato, I eat it.<br />
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<i>Dolci</i><br />
Even allowing for trends in food fashions, as in everything else, I have never understood why tiramisu fell out of favour. Sponge fingers soaked in alcohol and coffee, served with mascarpone cream and chocolate. What's not to like? In fact, I liked it so much that I had two helpings one night at our agriturismo. I also have a soft spot for the kind of deconstructed baked Alaska with soft Italian meringue, amazing vanilla gelato and sponge cake we ate one lunchtime. This may have been the same day as a tiramisu. I may have rolled home.<br />
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In conclusion: try everything; three-dessert days are occasionally appropriate; Italians know their way around carbohydrates; always pack walking / running shoes to work off the indulgence.<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-17207544172654336422014-10-03T08:00:00.000+01:002014-10-03T08:00:00.866+01:00Details / i Dettagli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>In which I continue to wax lyrical about Italy.</i></div>
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From Milan we got the train to the Langhe (for those who don't know it - as I didn't before last week - it's an area of small hills in Piedmont, in Northern Italy). More specifically we were staying just at the edge of the Barolo region and that, my friends, means wine. Really, really good wine. Three generations of family gathered at a wonderful Agriturismo (essentially a farm with B&B) there to celebrate my brother's Significant Birthday.</div>
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When I went through my photos of the weekend, I noticed that many of them captured small, lovely moments. No big monuments, no major events (apart from the birthday cake, I guess), no historic sites ... just lots of beautiful details in a beautiful place.</div>
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For example, watching the men pick grapes and then load up the truck - what amazing colours! One of my three-year-old nephews asked me in his Greeklish, <span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">'p<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px;">ou páne grapes?' (where are they going, the grapes?)</span></span></div>
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These striped deck chairs are where I'm planning to spend my retirement, gazing out over the wine-producing hills.<br />
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I spent an hour taking photographs of the small church on the property, looking at the patterns the leaves made against the stuccoed walls.<br />
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Roof details also feature frequently in my photographs - I like the little cupolas and the weathervane/cross combinations.<br />
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I liked seeing an old lady hanging out her washing: all black, including the voluminous knee-length knickers of legend. I liked seeing more colourful washing hanging from every balcony in the small, hill-top village of Barolo.<br />
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For some of my detail-spotting I was helped by my six-year-old Nephew, who found things for me to photograph and then helped me push the buttons on my camera. Oh, an auntie's life would be much sadder without small boys who adore gadgets.<br />
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Gregory spotted this flower, for example, hanging on to the ancient castle wall.<br />
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And this lamp on the Via Roma.<br />
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And this fresco of Madonna con bambino.<br />
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But I was the one who insisting on photographing this Posta Telegrafo + laundry composition.<br />
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Being in the company of small boys is excellent if one is in the business of noticing details. They are happy to spend hours unpicking things, collecting stones and disassembling sticks so that they are exactly the right length.<br />
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They are less interested in shrines, but I love to take photographs of them: small houses erected to protect hopes and desires. This one is dedicated to Beata Maria.<br />
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I liked the way the rosy, ochre-y brick stood out against the green hills.<br />
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And I liked the way it framed two small red-headed boys.<br />
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And speaking of which:</div>
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The place we stayed was Agriturismo Bevione. Glorious food, comfortable accommodation and the warmest of warm welcomes. http://www.agriturismobevione.it</div>
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Most of these photos were taken on a walk that starts in the village of Barolo (there's a car park below the castle) and ends up, via a trail that winds through woods and vineyards, in Monforte d'Alba, about 5km in total. http://www.barolodibarolo.com/inglese/itinerari.asp</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-81269704426185510262014-09-30T08:00:00.000+01:002014-09-30T10:08:15.873+01:00Four Hours in Milan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have just come back from four days in Italy and now I have a new to-do list with just one thing on it: ITALIA.<br />
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Why oh why have I not spent more time in Italy? It has all the things I like (food, art, style, scenery, history, great people watching) and it's not as though it were far away. But apart from a memorable family holiday when I was five (we went to Venice, there was a gondola, I wore a hat, it was fabulous) and <a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2012/01/roman-holiday.html">a brief trip to Rome</a> a couple of years ago, my Italian adventures have been practically non-existent. Well, that's going to have to change now, obviously. <br />
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In the spirit of making up for last time, I did try to cram a lot into the past few days, starting with four hours in Milan on Thursday with Lady Traveller's Little Sister. (This post has been brought to you by the number 4 and the letters I and M.) This photo of a delivery man's bike - and my sister looking admiring - sums up everything we loved about Milan.<br />
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Fortified by good cappuccinos on arrival, we headed into the city and our most important appointment: lunch. We had arranged to go to the Trattoria Milanese on Via Santa Marta, not far from the Duomo. There are, you might not be surprised to hear, several restaurants called 'Trattoria Milanese' but this came recommended. <br />
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We loved it, from the paintings of dead animals on the walls, to the charming waiter, through tortellini and veal Milanese and wine and cantucci and caffe. We staggered out and walked over to the cathedral. Wedding cake on the outside, altogether more beautiful on the inside.<br />
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We then paid our respects in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele - a 19th century shopping arcade - but luckily we didn't like anything we saw in the window of Versace (or Prada). <br />
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On the other side of the Galleria is the Piazza La Scala and though we didn't have time for an opera, we did have fun at the opera shop (mini opera glasses, yay!) Funnily enough, although lots of other things in Milan are very bling, the opera house is relatively unadorned.<br />
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We enjoyed, very much, watching the glamorous Milanese go by, noting approvingly that the city bikes and trams were colour-coordinated. <br />
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We wound up the afternoon at the very grand Stazione Centrale which has plenty of cafes, purveyors of snacks and fripperies. And then it was time to hop on board our train to Turin. <br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-62613336154360387962014-09-26T08:00:00.000+01:002014-09-26T08:00:05.054+01:00Hints to Travel Writers from a Lady Traveller <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A hint today from Isabella Bird, quintessential Lady Traveller and inspiration for this blog.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />'I'm convinced that actual letters - merely corrected - are the most vivid and popular form of presenting one's impressions of a country.'</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />Miss Bird wrote this to her publisher, John Murray, and I heard it in <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b03m79cx">an episode of BBC Radio 4's 'Great Lives'</a> (which is great, check it out). Isabella Bird's early travel books were based on letters to her sister at home, so they have that immediate, intimate style and are - for a Victorian writer - remarkably fresh and accessible.</span></div>
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But this line caught my attention again because it occurred to me that blogging is really a version of what she described. I occasionally wish my descriptions were better informed or more profound, but I started writing for family and friends and my posts reflect the true, sometimes confused, sometimes inarticulate impressions I had at the time of writing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />When this posts I will be in ITALY and will return next week with tales of pasta and wine and dolci, oh my.</span></div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-33836257808264933802014-09-23T09:14:00.002+01:002014-09-23T09:14:50.206+01:00Poppies at the Tower<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A few weeks ago I braved the misery of a wet London day to see the poppies at the Tower of London. A lot has been written about this elsewhere (see <a href="https://poppies.hrp.org.uk/about-the-installation">here</a> and <a href="http://www.dezeen.com/2014/08/04/blood-swept-lands-and-seas-of-red-poppies-installation-tower-of-london/">here</a>, for example) so I won't go into detail except to say that the installation, titled <i>Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Blood</i>, represents every British soldier who died in the First World War. The ceramic poppies are still being planted, but by 11th November, there will be 888,246 of them.<br />
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Even in the gloom the poppies were stunning - perhaps all the more stunning because of the gloom.<br />
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Seeing these poppies floating in the mud and the rain in the moat was a visceral reminder of the Flanders trenches. In a simple, true, powerful way it gave me new insights into John McCrae's poem.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; line-height: 22px;">In Flanders fields the poppies blow</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">Between the crosses, row on row,</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">That mark our place; and in the sky</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">The larks, still bravely singing, fly</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">Scarce heard amid the guns below.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">We are the Dead. Short days ago</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">Loved and were loved, and now we lie</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">In Flanders fields.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">Take up our quarrel with the foe:</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">To you from failing hands we throw</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">The torch; be yours to hold it high.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">If ye break faith with us who die</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">We shall not sleep, though poppies grow</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;"> </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22px;">In Flanders fields.</span></div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-67863341941882446922014-09-19T16:26:00.000+01:002014-09-19T16:26:26.390+01:00Five Years of Hints<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: left;">Returning after a short hiatus (unannounced, sorry about that) to celebrate the fact that a) this blog turns FIVE today and b) I am STILL blogging five years in, though sometimes by the skin of my teeth and, it</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">has to be admitted - more sporadically than I would wish.</span></div>
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During the hiatus I did wonder, as I have done periodically, about whether now might be the time to pack HTLT in mothballs but, as I have also decided periodically, I would miss the blog too much. So, I will keep blogging and I am resolved to do it at least twice a week (Tuesdays and Fridays), which I am announcing here because I firmly believe the best way to keep a resolution is to tell your friends and family about it and then you'll be forced to stick to it to avoid the nagging.<br />
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There may also be a few more posts about museums since, reader, I spend many of my waking moments thinking about them and occasionally those thoughts may spill over onto the pages of HTLT. But, you know, all Lady Travellers have had their pet topics: Lillias Campbell Davidson, for example, wrote an awful lot about bicycles …<br />
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But enough about future plans. I have decided to mark the blog's five-year anniversary with a quick look through the archives and some of my favourite posts.<br />
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<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2009/09/hints-to-lady-travellers.html">The very first post, and how this blog got its name</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2009/10/working-on-my-mean-face.html">The Cape Town Mean Face</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2009/12/byrons-boot-chopins-piano-mandelas.html">Byron's Boot, Chopin's Piano ... Mandela's Wheelbarrow</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2010/01/cramaziness.html">Cramaziness - Christmas in Zimbabwe</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2010/03/ecomusee-de-la-foret.html">Taking my eldest Adorable Nephew to a museum for the first time (warning: pictures are almost unbearably sweet)</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2010/08/roots-and-shoots.html">Roots and Shoots</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2010/10/hike-day-6-gungarlin-river-to-island.html">Hike4Hunger (or that time I spent a week hiking through the Australian bush)</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2011/04/autumn-in-fitzroy.html">Autumn in Fitzroy</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2011/06/talking-strain.html">Learning to speak Australian </a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2012/09/an-english-girls-first-impressions-of.html">One of the funniest travel books of all time</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2013/03/into-outback.html">My epic trip on the Ghan</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2013/06/paying-respects.html">On why I commemorate ANZAC Day</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2013/08/enchanted-isle.html">Enchanted Isle</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2014/02/roads-taken-not-taken-retaken.html">On retracing one's steps</a><br />
<a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2014/03/picture-dictionary-sublime-porte.html">The Sublime Porte</a><br />
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In honour of the occasion, there should be a hint, don't you think? Say it with me now:<br />
<i>surely none is more excellent in itself and its results, than the power which has become the right of every woman who has the means to achieve it - of becoming her own unescorted and independent person, a lady traveller. </i><br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-40509504168158417302014-08-21T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-21T08:00:04.128+01:00A Quiet Philadelphia Quaker<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Today, in my occasional (very occasional, but I'm trying to improve) series on lady travellers, please meet Elizabeth Gray Vining - and Crown Prince (now Emperor) Akihito.</div>
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1946. World War II had been over for less than a year and Japan was occupied by Allied troops, led by the Americans under General Douglas McArthur. The Emperor decided (or had it decided for him) that his son, the Crown Prince, should learn English. <br />
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Picture the scene.<br />
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<i>One morning late in May Samuel Marble, now President of Wilmington College, Ohio, who was then organising the [Friends'] Committee's relief project for Japan, came in to talk to me about an appeal we were preparing. After we had finished the business in hand he turned to me and said without preamble, 'Would you consider having your name suggested as tutor to the Crown Prince of Japan?' </i><br />
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Elizabeth Gray Vining was 'a quiet Philadelphia Quaker', a librarian and children's author, who was left widowed when her husband was killed in a car crash. The committee appointed to find a tutor for the Crown Prince had already determined that the right candidate would be a woman, a Christian, and someone with no prior knowledge of Japan, 'since she was to teach by the direct method entirely in English'. They also determined that this non-Japanese speaking, Christian woman should be about 50. Apart from the age requirement (she was only 44), Elizabeth Vining fit the bill. Despite initial protestations, in October 1946, Mrs Vining arrived in Japan.<br />
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Her book, 'Windows for the Crown Prince', describes her first impressions of Japan, the extraordinary experience of getting to know the Imperial Family, lessons with the Crown Prince (and later on with some of his siblings and classmates). It also describes the occupation and the rebuilding of Japan - including the war crimes tribunals. <br />
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My favourite aspect of the book are Mrs Vining's descriptions of Japan - both for the interest of learning about life there under the occupation and also for reading about the culture and landscape. One passage particularly stayed with me, where she writes about her first night in Tokyo.<br />
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<i>As I lay in bed waiting for sleep, I heard the sound of wooden clogs in the street outside, a clip-clop that made me realise more keenly than any other one thing that now I was actually in Japan. Clip-clop, clip-clop, lightly yet with a little drag, the wooden </i>gets<i> passed along the lane and died away. Later in the night I felt my first earthquake, a tiny tremor from the earth's centre like the flicker of a fish's tail - a catfish, the Japanese say, moving its whiskers. In the morning the rain was gone and I woke to a dazzling blue and gold October day. From the flat roof on top of the house I could see Mount Fuji, ethereal in the distance, white-shawled against the blue sky.</i><br />
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I, too, have lain awake on my first night in a new country, waiting for sleep. I have noticed every noise that marked the new place as different, aware of things that would later become part of a familiar soundscape. Not scared, but very aware; not yet ready to relax into my surroundings. And then I have woken up to dazzling skies and views and felt my wings spreading … though I've never had to prepare to meet an Emperor.<br />
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Reading the book I did occasionally wonder if Mrs Vining were fatally naive or had just drunk the Kool Aid - her account of General McArthur is, well, imagine 'gushy' as rendered by a quiet Philadelphia Quaker. But she was clearly aware of her role, as much goodwill ambassador as tutor, and she deserved her praise. The Emperor is supposed to have said, 'If ever anything I did has been a success it was asking Mrs Vining to come here.' <br />
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On balance, I think Mrs Vining's own summary of her extraordinary task is the best.<br />
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<i>I had been asked to open windows on to a wider world for the Crown Prince. I had tried, but who can say to what extent I had succeeded? But certainly many windows had been opened for me - and perhaps through me for others - both on Japan itself and on that ancient, ceremonious, hidden world within the Moat. Through windows, whichever way they face, comes light, and light, I thought, is good.</i><br />
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Elizabeth Gray Vining's obituary is <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/1999/12/01/arts/elizabeth-vining-tutor-to-a-future-emperor-dies-at-97.html">here</a>.<br />
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If you'd like to read 'Windows for the Crown Prince', second hand copies can be found online. Edmund de Waal, in one of my favourite books, 'The Hare with the Amber Eyes', references its sequel, 'Return to Japan' - so if my recommendation isn't enough … </div>
Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-41223551054841657712014-08-20T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-20T08:00:03.086+01:00Borgen!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For all you fans of Borgen out there, here's me on the steps of Christiansborg Palce in Copenhagen, doing my best to channel Birgitte Nyborg (should I have gone for the crinkled-nose smile?)<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-50782125856418991752014-08-18T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-19T19:59:31.036+01:00Arranmorning<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The trip to Arranmore marked a first for me: the first time I stayed overnight on one of the islands. Now, in consequence, I have a new hint. Do you likewise. There is nothing quite like falling asleep to the sound of the sea on an island and waking up to the views and the quiet. On Sunday morning I walked along the beach to the pier and the abandoned lifeboat station - it was the absolute epitome of serenity.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-13545047055487202862014-08-14T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-14T08:00:05.424+01:00Around Arranmore<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
If you're wondering what there is to do on an Irish island, the answer, most often, is walk around and look at the scenery. One of the most striking things about the scenery on Arranmore is the contrast between the east and west sides of the island. The sheltered east side is almost lush (or certainly lush in comparison) with trees, bright flowers - and bright paint. The west side, exposed to the Atlantic and with nothing between it and America, is wilder, more rugged. I can confirm this, because we walked all the way around the island, 14km in total. We followed Slí Árainn Mhór or the Arranmore Loop from Aphort at the south-eastern end of the island, walking clockwise till we came back to where we started - with a brief detour to Phil Bán's Pub.<br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-52196009636831053832014-08-13T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-13T08:00:06.052+01:00The Two Faces of Boa Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A brief detour from Arranmore Island to Boa Island, from offshore to inland. Boa Island is on Lough Erne and no ferry is required to get there: it's connected by bridge to the mainland and, if you weren't paying attention, you might not even know you were on an island. We made a detour in search of some very special inhabitants.<br />
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These are pre-Christian stone figures. Nobody knows exactly what they represent or why they have two faces or why they appear to be clutching their nether regions like small children in need of a toilet. Of course there are plenty of theories … but I'm less interested in the theories and more interested in the fact that they're still there, thousands of years later, nestled in the corner of a tiny graveyard on Boa Island.</div>
Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-78829053725024411622014-08-11T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-11T08:00:08.113+01:00The Arranmore Ferry<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Last week I was catching up on a backlog of summer trips. Now for a slightly more recent excursion.</div>
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At the beginning of August, I visited island #5 in my <a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2011/08/islands-project.html">island hopping project</a> to visit all of Ireland's inhabited offshore islands. Arranmore Island off the south coast of Donegal is among the largest of the islands and has one of the biggest island populations. (Arranmore - in Irish, Oileán Árainn Mhór - not to be confused with Inis Mór Árainn, the biggest of the Aran Islands off the Galway coast, though their names are very like.) Like many of the islands, Arranmore is a Gaeltacht and Irish is still the main language of many of the islanders. </div>
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Unlike <a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2013/08/failte-go-toraigh.html">Tory</a>, which I visited last summer, Arranmore is a mere stone's throw from the mainland: ten minutes in a fast ferry from the village of Burtonport. And when we left on a Friday evening, the sun came out to gild the voyage. We could have been sailing to a Greek island - almost. </div>
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The ferry isn't big, but it can take cars and, since we were staying for the weekend, we elected to bring the car with us. I'm just glad that it wasn't my responsibility to reverse the car up the little ramp and on to the deck… Still, that done, we made our way up on deck for the short crossing. I think that ferry boats like this are a big part of my fascination with island life. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcFcX3Gb9RvsibJ0LDgwKijEm_gsr2txmPaJVC8_G-bn7UGJOSSLyaitbjNgcMkDHh4qV_xldUlzlaNpvN4ldKN5ElNxAxKWaDBlpI8T4xBm39ZSUcbPvfAMnbJPcaTuICJLoLaZ5ATjU/s1600/IMG_8421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmcFcX3Gb9RvsibJ0LDgwKijEm_gsr2txmPaJVC8_G-bn7UGJOSSLyaitbjNgcMkDHh4qV_xldUlzlaNpvN4ldKN5ElNxAxKWaDBlpI8T4xBm39ZSUcbPvfAMnbJPcaTuICJLoLaZ5ATjU/s1600/IMG_8421.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wind turbine of Burtonport</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burtonport</td></tr>
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The ferry passes through a sheltered channel cutting through a group of islands: Rutland Island, Edernish, Inis Coo. You can see the route of the ferry on the map:<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="450" src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m14!1m12!1m3!1d18315.113903907226!2d-8.477939350683586!3d54.98380921178435!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sie!4v1407595912804" style="border: 0;" width="600"></iframe>
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There are some beautiful holiday homes on the islands - which are only accessible by private boat.<br />
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Two ferry companies make the trip back and forth: the red Arranmore Ferry company and the blue Arranmore Fast Ferry Service .</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDENVm4lDpsK_a7PUOoOPnJ7hLe-6VqToFiFC1R61pimlMTBQ6qqGDy-ZlznsYZE5EgoD0H7qTbKtPMdEih0GQpsJ10IKlqO_UixxQbNJTDzaJFPhOymxgZA9MjA6DlJcqKPTvlUi1gsk/s1600/IMG_8430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDENVm4lDpsK_a7PUOoOPnJ7hLe-6VqToFiFC1R61pimlMTBQ6qqGDy-ZlznsYZE5EgoD0H7qTbKtPMdEih0GQpsJ10IKlqO_UixxQbNJTDzaJFPhOymxgZA9MjA6DlJcqKPTvlUi1gsk/s1600/IMG_8430.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Very soon after leaving Burtonport, you arrive at Leabgarrow, the village of the island.<br />
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One final note on the ferry. Though Arranmore has many, many things in its favour, there are limited options for evening meals. So on the Saturday night, we took advantage of the fast, friendly, scenic ferry to hop back to Burtonport for dinner, before returning to the island for bed!</div>
Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-63279041145483645312014-08-08T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-08T08:00:01.790+01:00Port Eliot<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm actually making some progress on my Life List this year. A recent half tick was this one:</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">74. Go to Port Eliot and Flat Lake</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Both Port Eliot and Flat Lake are books/music/food/whimsy festivals set in the grounds of stately homes, one in Cornwall, the other in County Monaghan. Given my fondness for books/music/food/whimsy - not to mention stately homes - you can imagine why I would want to sign up. Sadly, the full tick wasn't possible in 2014 as Flat Lake is on hiatus and there are conflicting rumours about whether it will, in fact, return. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><a href="http://www.porteliotfestival.com/">Port Eliot Festival</a> took a break last year but returned in triumph on a hot, hot weekend at the end of July. And I went with the lovely Mary, Emily and Freya (the average age of the party was 18 3/4 … ) to sample its delights. For the full experience, I suspect you really would want to camp, but we viewed this as an opportunity to dip our toes in the water.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">So what did we sample?</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Sadly, the day got off to a slightly rocky start owing to some chaos concerning the ticket sellers at the entrance and a very long queue for coffee (really bad combination of queues) but picked up afterwards. I went to hear Rachel Cooke discuss her recent book 'Her Brilliant Career' about professional women in the fifties (great stories, only quibble after reading book is that it's more preoccupied with their personal lives than their work) while the little girls had their face painted. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU-sXm7pD1BaZwGSHaTHK3aSLN_pedRcMM2bUnAiL3JoNDIr4qDvnP3t90qIG3H4MVDihnAMsFZT2TSFDB-pb1ebgWsoXisP5gdYNFc-OfGMLP-YjkCJFT2eBOyidHJzg2gRX4y54Ti1_R/s1600/IMG_2010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU-sXm7pD1BaZwGSHaTHK3aSLN_pedRcMM2bUnAiL3JoNDIr4qDvnP3t90qIG3H4MVDihnAMsFZT2TSFDB-pb1ebgWsoXisP5gdYNFc-OfGMLP-YjkCJFT2eBOyidHJzg2gRX4y54Ti1_R/s1600/IMG_2010.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6H1y5-uNTgL65c-CldhVXorf0c9mTNfsgdMFxVAMx8zjFNEgeYqU0AiLJevdf_6qbpIVCnb10rDhb2PMH2VuSS-ZVkPN1f8E8yvnz-tENeGxKoxMBE5jGmscoFBGUHeOg5P1r0xxumNrx/s1600/IMG_2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6H1y5-uNTgL65c-CldhVXorf0c9mTNfsgdMFxVAMx8zjFNEgeYqU0AiLJevdf_6qbpIVCnb10rDhb2PMH2VuSS-ZVkPN1f8E8yvnz-tENeGxKoxMBE5jGmscoFBGUHeOg5P1r0xxumNrx/s1600/IMG_2013.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">We watched <a href="http://www.moro.co.uk/sam-and-sam-clark.php">Sam Clark of Moro</a> (one of my favourite restaurants in London) give a demonstration, </span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhZ2gzkWvStSr6vgSzBx8NFH__MtsxXjaEbcTe8XsJ4eRqiw0bv_otPOBOdpSv0VhgQEdsUn6yo85FsGhgMxaf9iAkujlzdp1vRoYccVwGdmdnPW1Y8LFZfKimB3Bij7GdeLnpy3gnqQfv/s1600/IMG_2011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhZ2gzkWvStSr6vgSzBx8NFH__MtsxXjaEbcTe8XsJ4eRqiw0bv_otPOBOdpSv0VhgQEdsUn6yo85FsGhgMxaf9iAkujlzdp1vRoYccVwGdmdnPW1Y8LFZfKimB3Bij7GdeLnpy3gnqQfv/s1600/IMG_2011.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">then had lunch from the Morito tent. Grilled lamb chops with a kind of </span></span></span><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">fattoush-y salad. Yum YUM. (It was about this point, though, that my phone died so photos from this point are courtesy of Mary - which is why there are more than usual of your correspondent.)</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">After lunch we had floral crowns made for us in the Wardrobe Department area of the festival in the walled garden.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 20px;">There was a queue, but it was so worth it, not just for the beautiful crowns, but for the charm and grace (after a long, hot day on their feet) of milliner <a href="http://www.piersatkinson.com/">Piers Atkinson</a> and his crew.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Later there were ice creams, swims in the lake/inlet/estuary (never did work out exactly which), </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">a talk in the Idler Academy tent from David Bramwell, author of 'The Number 9 Bus to Utopia', which was mostly about the Damanhur community in the Alps, which I was CONVINCED was made up - but <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federation_of_Damanhur">apparently not</a>. Cramazing.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">I had a sunset swim,</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">followed by an elderflower bellini, followed by great music from Ben Watt (formerly of Everything But the Girl) in the church. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">And then we drove home in the still-hot dark.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">Even Lou Reed might concede it was a perfect day.</span></span><br />
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-70547682083730970482014-08-07T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-07T08:00:02.359+01:00Five Go Cycling<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I can't help it: five people go for a cycling excursion in Devon with some decoratively retro Pashley bikes - of course my mind was going to turn to Enid Blyton. The five people in question being my small goddaughter, her even smaller sister, her parents and myself. My (rented, sadly) bike was lipstick red and it had a basket and a bell. Oh yes.</div>
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Our route took us from <a href="http://www.dartsfarm.co.uk/">Darts Farm</a> (much more than a farm shop, more like a rustic mall) just outside Exeter, along the estuary to Exmouth.</div>
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Not being the most coordinated person in the world, taking photos while cycling proved to be a bit ambitious, so apart from these actions shots of Emily, </div>
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mostly I took photos while safely stationary.<br />
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Oh, but it was glorious. The smell of the sea, the smell of the trees, the smell of the wildflowers, the wind in our hair, the prrrring of the bicycle bells.<br />
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No ginger beer (or tongue sandwiches, praise the Lord), but we did have gin and ginger ale when we got home - <i>The Famous Five - The Later Years</i>. Ripping.</div>
Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-25904641832368607942014-08-06T08:00:00.000+01:002014-08-06T08:00:03.174+01:00Caledonian Sleeper<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In the spirit of what seems to be catch up week on the blog, here are some photos from the Caledonian sleeper between London and Glasgow. The train leaves Euston just before midnight and arrives in Glasgow around 7am. If you're a sound sleeper, you might get six hours' sleep - and certainly the process of getting on and off the train beats the stress of processing at the airport, not to mention you depart from and arrive to the centre of the city.<br />
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The accommodation isn't fancy but it's clean, the staff are friendly and the bar has an excellent selection of single malts. <br />
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Here are some photos taken around 6am from the window of my compartment, just before the steward brought me a cup of tea and a piece of shortbread.<br />
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It's not quite the glamour of rail travel we yearn for (which is probably more informed by Poirot TV adaptations than reality) but it's a pretty civilised way to travel.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4165184072444678640.post-47843710453438010882014-08-04T11:39:00.002+01:002014-08-04T15:14:05.946+01:00The Layers of Thessaloniki<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When I was in Thessaloniki at the end of June, one of the highlights of the visit was a walking tour of the city. Our guide was called Romulus (yes, really) and in just a few hours he helped us at least to begin to make sense of the layers and layers of the city's history.<br />
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Often archaeological sites put me in mind of Shelley's Ozymandias - 'Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair! - a reminder of impermanence, that our grandest monuments and most beautiful buildings will one day crumble. But sometime they are a reminder of endurance: despite wars and weather and wear, fragments of the past survive and are made new. Thessaloniki is an excellent example of the latter - but before we get to the evidence, first a brief history.<br />
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Thessaloniki means 'Thessalian victory', and the city is named for the half-sister of Alexander the Great, Princess Thessalonike. I touched on this <a href="http://hintstoladytravellers.blogspot.ie/2014/07/28th-june.html">here</a>, but it is a city that has endured a great deal and yet has survived. An important city under Alexander, Thessaloniki then became an administrative capital of one of the four quarters of the Roman Empire. (I'm skipping a few centuries here: this is the highlights tour.) After the fall of Rome, Thessaloniki was, perhaps, even more powerful within the Byzantine Empire, second only to Constantinople. From the 15th century, the city was ruled by the Ottomans and became the proverbial melting pot - home to Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Jews. It wasn't until 1912 that the city was claimed by Greece and during World War I became a base for the Allied Powers. The old city was devastated by fire in 1917 - and, adding to the huge upheaval, came the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. Given that Thessaloniki seems to have suffered everything a city can suffer, you won't be surprised to hear that during World War II it was attacked by the Italians and invaded by the Germans, resulting in the deportation and death of most of the city's Jewish population. And yet - despite all of this, despite the Greek Civil War, despite the recent economic crisis - Thessaloniki is still there, still beautiful.<br />
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Walking through Thessaloniki, you begin to distinguish evidence of different centuries. Starting with the 21st century at the harbour,<br />
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through the 20th in the Art Deco apartment buildings and hotels,<br />
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not to mention the former stock exchange.<br />
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Stepping into the market you could be in anytime over the past hundred years or so,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3zMuL9G6UOlsqM5UHjqJ0Ceo7pTkD3C-UaNmoDTs6ybVzxy3R78xMi7-bY-oXND4KsPHgxVYqK2e1yp93xTzFLNiyf4wYYBBJyfsa_AfkHEVNnmLL_U5yLvI9Kq_KOIxIXFNWMTF4oc1/s1600/IMG_1734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3zMuL9G6UOlsqM5UHjqJ0Ceo7pTkD3C-UaNmoDTs6ybVzxy3R78xMi7-bY-oXND4KsPHgxVYqK2e1yp93xTzFLNiyf4wYYBBJyfsa_AfkHEVNnmLL_U5yLvI9Kq_KOIxIXFNWMTF4oc1/s1600/IMG_1734.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17nf0xQYz1HiOHOvjezfF6RFRBaZ9-D5tobQham5Q-pfrAIwPZrfU2fXTiywoXGriw9ccog86etB-TUsYbbftvCnGVHZtGQ_evaEZ2IFLtqccjDLbJBccQ_YuQxFVG5fxrj-tubbQTrSZ/s1600/IMG_1739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17nf0xQYz1HiOHOvjezfF6RFRBaZ9-D5tobQham5Q-pfrAIwPZrfU2fXTiywoXGriw9ccog86etB-TUsYbbftvCnGVHZtGQ_evaEZ2IFLtqccjDLbJBccQ_YuQxFVG5fxrj-tubbQTrSZ/s1600/IMG_1739.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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but the churches are unmistakably Byzantine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-YoAUQYR823RAwqDqKYxCjH-Kvmk8FHo2IBCIAc7z4q9ziGGbVNT2APDBiBJCraq5Nx-Q6VEs_oLNfhazWkHdQs-mAntdem_gzau_Q2rt4MVmH5kfRMrI9GHSJDoY7q8PMghGf7YoQwp/s1600/IMG_1710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg-YoAUQYR823RAwqDqKYxCjH-Kvmk8FHo2IBCIAc7z4q9ziGGbVNT2APDBiBJCraq5Nx-Q6VEs_oLNfhazWkHdQs-mAntdem_gzau_Q2rt4MVmH5kfRMrI9GHSJDoY7q8PMghGf7YoQwp/s1600/IMG_1710.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZ6eNMo0fwAn5ayv5ZlyZyq7-XYlkGx3LQ79VgdUYrC8cWJOTbK8q5hkwyay2mf6lQ9gAZIflJRufjfhMn9hSypyxnw3v7d7pL7pmQyiEiHQ7lMz9XHv38b04mnbPIY4SolVHHb1cG189/s1600/IMG_1712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZ6eNMo0fwAn5ayv5ZlyZyq7-XYlkGx3LQ79VgdUYrC8cWJOTbK8q5hkwyay2mf6lQ9gAZIflJRufjfhMn9hSypyxnw3v7d7pL7pmQyiEiHQ7lMz9XHv38b04mnbPIY4SolVHHb1cG189/s1600/IMG_1712.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrqe5-uSTsCM29b4F8rkwJrm0ed20SUlnESVRyx0KGaikYdaDW78ElegaN8SeG12geUn-rq1IE2LwVDAI6qt8xwEvHtAonqY2if41T6h8VLv5cCkymG8CPiCbJQgHhL6uYOzb_OehFDCK/s1600/IMG_1728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrqe5-uSTsCM29b4F8rkwJrm0ed20SUlnESVRyx0KGaikYdaDW78ElegaN8SeG12geUn-rq1IE2LwVDAI6qt8xwEvHtAonqY2if41T6h8VLv5cCkymG8CPiCbJQgHhL6uYOzb_OehFDCK/s1600/IMG_1728.jpg" height="474" width="640" /></a></div>
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And - not looking incongruous at all - is this Byzantine-style former mosque.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnKBDCIGGZ8LI_HNKzgbsT6J37Z6LsGYcYN7__CLzc5di3JpHyo1dWSB5LXj3vM76wFvGWynyKStUUne2a7haFsgDnLSXFDyP5qWH1NnhdZCFPkHB94UDKNdomVtuIXjBX7JYaA0MtL4H/s1600/IMG_1741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGnKBDCIGGZ8LI_HNKzgbsT6J37Z6LsGYcYN7__CLzc5di3JpHyo1dWSB5LXj3vM76wFvGWynyKStUUne2a7haFsgDnLSXFDyP5qWH1NnhdZCFPkHB94UDKNdomVtuIXjBX7JYaA0MtL4H/s1600/IMG_1741.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the crypt of St Demetrius' Basilica is the place where the saint is supposed to have been martyred,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMmtcX8tYlhEptpB_ZCM4sg8fuFXazrAsJL5ynai33EbmkDpeAqv79YEg4Ka3HrX3BDFyXtzGZ1osdsg-xZU8bBwAg7paunJfBBCD-ZpJF2alrwcQCFIVyb0Ydp462Sneibc7o1pAVHTw/s1600/IMG_1807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMmtcX8tYlhEptpB_ZCM4sg8fuFXazrAsJL5ynai33EbmkDpeAqv79YEg4Ka3HrX3BDFyXtzGZ1osdsg-xZU8bBwAg7paunJfBBCD-ZpJF2alrwcQCFIVyb0Ydp462Sneibc7o1pAVHTw/s1600/IMG_1807.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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but which also contains inscriptions in Arabic and Hebrew.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdyiX_uchKySgPGrpjZ05E63nuLyoMuzkgc9ptVVzri55wVTBdVeC2ybdCr0JG3DCPnOhR0Xqi6gpA4e3rVsbc5ukCNdQl30uDDP7Gbl2hdQbaGg_HddZgPpq_PEz2VVX9CTWvUGomlhc/s1600/IMG_1808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdyiX_uchKySgPGrpjZ05E63nuLyoMuzkgc9ptVVzri55wVTBdVeC2ybdCr0JG3DCPnOhR0Xqi6gpA4e3rVsbc5ukCNdQl30uDDP7Gbl2hdQbaGg_HddZgPpq_PEz2VVX9CTWvUGomlhc/s1600/IMG_1808.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Digging deep gets to some of the oldest layers: here is the palace of Galerius, one of the Roman rulers of Thessaloniki.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiqNodn859OMOyY-9lzldkXts0khmAyDJcN8EPAPiKI0hIFUZS0OZ6JFykf8xevjeGyfeIOoNf_PcSo8bQVtUnv63Qgy8-DJoj_3BE8B488b9JxkhUsTjXttToN4-nhK-L4uhXF0IofLh8/s1600/IMG_1773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiqNodn859OMOyY-9lzldkXts0khmAyDJcN8EPAPiKI0hIFUZS0OZ6JFykf8xevjeGyfeIOoNf_PcSo8bQVtUnv63Qgy8-DJoj_3BE8B488b9JxkhUsTjXttToN4-nhK-L4uhXF0IofLh8/s1600/IMG_1773.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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Those boxes scratched on the stone are, quite possibly, the remnants of a game played by slaves to pass the time while they waited for their masters.<br />
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Galerius also had an arch constructed - which, known as the Kamara, is still a popular meeting meeting place for Thessalonikans.<br />
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And here is the Rotunda - which captures the city's adaptable nature. Built possibly as Galerius' mausoleum, or a pantheon, it has since done service as a mosque and a church and a concert hall (a couple of those at the same time.)<br />
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So there you have it: Thessaloniki, city of layers. </div>
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And if it all seems a little exhausting, you could do worse than to do as we did after our walking tour - take yourself to one of the city's pastry shops and dive into the sticky layers of some baklava.</div>
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Eithnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06981761400278056569noreply@blogger.com0